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02/04

Interview – GIOVANNI SCARAFIOCCA Style Office Director, Fabi for Men

 

HOW DO YOU GET THE IDEA FOR A NEW
COLLECTION?
 
The idea for a collection comes from careful market research and an indepth
familiarity with your customers. It’s important to anticipate their
needs, and at the same time, always focus on the style in a consistent
way.
What makes one creation better than another?
 
A successful shoe for men needs to have practical advantages as well as
design features that will win out over another brand. Men take a much
more pragmatic approach to purchases; they’re much less romantic, much
more concrete. Our task is to guide that choice.
 
How do you manage to separate the purely emotional aspect from
the commercial one when you’re creating a product?
 
Stylists usually only deal with the emotional aspect: they feel an idea
emerging and want to put it into concrete form, just the way they conceived
it. This phase then comes up against various limitations imposed by the
commercial side of things. I’d say that rather than separating the two, you
have to find a good common ground. The team working for me assists with this part as well.
 
WHAT PERCENTAGE OF IMPORTANCE WOULD
YOU ASSIGN TO THESE TWO COMPONENTS?
 
It’s hard to say, I’d say that the purely creative aspect covers about 35%
of the whole. I have a very rational mind, though with an artistic bent. I
think one has to take a logical approach to creating a collection or even an
individual model, especially for an elegant, masculine product like ours.
 
What are the most complex aspect and the simplest aspect of putting
together a footwear collection?
 
The simplest aspect, paradoxically, is the creative stage, from the first
simple sketch of the model up to its actual realization; what’s most complex
is always managing to convey new, appealing messages.
 
“to us the choice of materials is key”
 
HOW DO YOU PUT TOGETHER THE “PERFECT
COLLECTION”?
 
In our line of work, there are no universal concepts that you can apply, just sequences
that you follow. You start by creating the form in all its complexities, with the
same attention to detail you’d find in woodworking; to us the choice of materials
is key, as is the technical expertise needed to make these elements concrete. The
perfect collection is one that has no gaps, no blunders, no underestimations of the
whole; one that captivates and thrills the customer.
 
What are the guiding themes behind Fabi’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection
for Men?
 
The concept of “lightness” has been pivotal in many of the themes we develop
every season. The techniques that we have increasingly come to favour lead to
collections with an artisan feel, but using modern-day technology.
 
WHAT KIND OF MAN IS IT INSPIRED BY?
The Fabi man is a professional, an expert, an artist, a traveller, a manager. He is definitely
a man who makes immediate decisions, adopting and customizing a style through targeted specific purchases.

 

Could you list a few celebrities whose style is akin to the FABI man?
 
Our collections never have a single theme, so Fabi style could be associated with figures like
Riccardo Muti, Andrea Bocelli (who often wears our shoes), or even the comic actor Christian
De Sica; James Cameron, Roberto Mancini, Putin. Charismatic men, born leaders.
29/02

Fabi World Trend Magazine

All the season's latest items and fashion trends.

29/02

Interview: Francesco D’Autilio – Style Office Director, Fabi for Women

 

HOW DO YOU GET THE IDEA
FOR A NEW COLLECTION?
It may come from anywhere: some detail in the
street, a shop window that might even be displaying
objects, furniture… That’s how some inspirations
and moods come to you: from real life, from
watching ordinary people. I once read a beautiful
poem by a little Brazilian boy who tried to describe
an emotion by comparing it to a flash of colour
he caught sight of as it passed by the window: he
couldn’t make out what it was, but he grasped the
essence of the thing.
 
What makes one creation better than another?
 
It’s hard to come up with a specific answer to that;
you might say that there are two ways that a design
can be good: from a commercial standpoint and
from a creative one, but the two things often clash.
The perfect design is one that manages to embrace
them both.
 
How do you manage to separate the purely
emotional aspect from the commercial one when
you’re creating a product?
 
You start with the purely stylistic idea, which
aspires to be innovative, then move on to a more
useful concept. The product has to be refocused,
and I always tell my team that it’s like a bouquet of
flowers. Once you get it home and want to arrange it
in a vase, you get rid of everything you don’t need:
the wrapping paper, the tape, the extra leaves… In
a similar way, we try to adapt the product to the
market, fine-tuning its “legibility”, so that the target
audience it’s meant to capture will immediately grasp its substance.
 

 

“A collection is like a honeycomb, where
every cell has its own place…”
 
HOW DO YOU PUT TOGETHER THE “PERFECT
COLLECTION”?
 
The perfect collection is one that will stand up to scrutiny both of experts
and of the end consumer. It’s like a good romance novel: everyone will
interpret it based on their own experience.
 
What are the guiding themes behind Fabi’s Spring/Summer 2012 for
Women?
 
We were inspired by the idea of jewel-like elements in the sandals, which
manage to express richness and a sense of luxury, of refinement. In terms of
an evolution from the last collection, we wanted to introduce an architectural
feeling, with greater height, more rigid shapes, but without sacrificing
femininity and grace.
 
WHAT KIND OF WOMAN IS IT INSPIRED BY?
 
The Fabi woman is very spirited and dynamic, a woman who even at her most elegant always
holds on to her intensity and personality.
 
Could you list a few celebrities whose style is akin to the FABI woman?
 
It’s not that easy to pin down… if I were to look at the more elegant part of the collection I
would associate it with the beautiful, sophisticated Nicole Kidman. For the more everyday
section, I’d envision a friendly, down-to-earth woman like the radiant, natural Cameron Diaz.
If I were to imagine it worn in a very sexy way, I’d definitely choose Halle Berry: the most
seductive Cat Woman in Hollywood!
 
 
 
 
 
.
 
“A collection is like a honeycomb, where
every cell has its own place…”
 
FRANCESCO D’AUTILIO
Style Office Director, Fabi for Women
 
 

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