Fabi Mag

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Category Archives: Our Country

22/04

THE OPEN DOORS. THE WALLS THAT ASK FORGIVENESS. THE VOICES (AND THE EYES) OF MEMORY

Memory is alive. From memories, we draw nourishment to shape the future. Le Marche region, especially its southern part, may claim to have written some of the most intense pages in the history of civil resistance during the Second World War. Pages that have left an indelible mark and are still re-opened today, to understand better and look inward.

There are so many stories that can be heard when wandering around, especially in inland areas.

In Montemonaco, for instance, a few hours’ walk from Mount Sibilla, just above the hamlet of Isola San Biagio, there is a small house along the hiking trail The Great Sybilline Ring. Four British soldiers hid there in 1943 after escaping from a prison camp and before being taken in and looked after by the Buratti family, despite the presence of Nazi-Fascist militaries in the area. Eric Batteson was one of those soldiers, and more than 70 years later he wanted to thank that community, heavily affected by the quake, by donating a huge sum of money.

In the same area, other British officers were hidden on Mount Amandola by families who lived in Garulla, and there are many other similar stories that can be learned by stopping to talk to those who keep feeding that memory.

Then there’s Servigliano, along the valley of the river Tenna. And above all, there is La Casa della Memoria (House of Remembrance Association), an educational center that was born with the recovery of the old train station, situated right in front of a prison camp where prisoners of different nationalities converged from the beginning of the last century, including, after the end of the Second World War, refugees from Istria and also from our former colonies in Africa.

The House, which takes its name from the association that has been working on a large and important collection of material and testimonies for years, is a lighthouse especially for the new generations. A place of knowledge but also of meeting, in front of a wall that has delimited the camp for decades, a place where the lives of tens of thousands of people were constricted among dust and shacks. That wall stayed there, almost as if to apologize for not being able to oppose such a madness. And behind its bricks, over a lawn silently trampled too many times, the voices of children and families can be heard today. Free voices, chasing a balloon. Voices that can erupt from a slide as if they were one melody. Voices that come together. And most importantly, eyes: eyes that try to go further, without losing their reference points.

ANDREA BRACONI

13/04

SENTINA, CONERO AND SAN BARTOLO: THREE CRADLES OF A UNIQUE STORY

The best known of them is, of course, that of the Conero, whose outline is discernible from miles off. Next to it, I’ll put the northern end with the Park of Mount San Bartolo, and the southern end with the Sentina Natural Reserve: two containers of suggestions and authentic wonders.

 

Let us start from the south, with a few but necessary instructions for use: pictures will speak louder than (my) words. Including those shared by a friend, Adis Bacinovic, who is capable of magically capturing every nuance of this very important part of Italy.

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So, the Sentina Natural Reserve, a spectacular crossroads of silence, bird chants, stranded logs, sighting points and century-old remains that modified the coastline along the River Tronto. Here, where cultivated fields, dunes and wet environments mark the border with Abruzzo, with disarming simplicity we can regain the uniqueness of the noise of one’s steps, the meaning of a color and of a trajectory. And it’s right here, in this resting place for migrant birds, in this cradle of biodiversity with a sixteenth-century tower pushing us even further back in time, that our lungs are filled with astonishment.

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The same strong feeling that also accompanies us during the hike towards Passo del Lupo on Mount Conero, which seems to embrace the best this region has to offer: the reflections of the sea, with the vertical walls on which man has been able to mark trails; the rows of Rosso Conero grapevines, fluttering and revealing of the ancestral struggle of our farmers; its caves filled with mystery; Portonovo and Sassi Neri (black rocks’ beach); Numana and Sirolo coming from the south, up to the majesty of Ancona once we cross over 6,000 hectares of parkland. But it’s from the top, from a unique perspective overlooking the sea, that everything takes shape, and this time takes our breath away. We struggle to choose the right direction for our eyes, because even behind us, among those trees that can guide us to the perfect spot, we might find a a stirring detail.

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Considered as the Conero’s “little brother”, the Natural Park of Mount San Bartolo is a pearl set between Pesaro and Gabicce, and displays similar outlines, with a vegetation that is a treasure chest of diversified narratives, in places like Casteldimezzo and Fiorenzuola di Focara, passing through the magnificent Villaimperiale. The blend between the waters of the Adriatic sea and the promontories borders on perfection here, too. In addition to a variety of hiking tours and excursions, and the ever-present vineyards, San Bartolo also offers a journey in time between the 3rd and 4th centuries after Christ in the archaeological area of Colombarone, where evidence of the Roman presence can be seen.

009 San Bartolo

ANDREA BRACONI

24/03

ABOUT SMALL MUD VOLCANOES, PROFILES AND LIGHT

A former teacher, Stafano enjoys bringing to the attention of visitors every corner of the territory of  Monteleone di Fermo, especially the areas where these impressive spill points persist, both those already known and those recently discovered.

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“It is a geological phenomenon that has always intrigued me,” he explains while he hits the ground. “Lately there has been much talk of the correlation between them and the earthquake, especially after what happened on January 18 and the subsequent mud leak in the area of Santa Vittoria in Matenano. The shocks surely facilitate this situation, in the same way as the action of water or the internal gas pressure, tho.”

Hence the suggestion, one kilometer after another, of the mutations along the river Ete Vivo, sometimes visible even within the same stream bed. Spots, flows and buildups that on a different scale visually recall canyons and inlets at different latitudes. The small size is precisely the added value of this scientific, geological and natural heritage, and its full accessibility amplifies the appeal of a hike that is out of the ordinary.

Stefano is also able to get you to raise your eyes, while he points out – with his ever-present stick – the refined, gentle shape of a hill, a perfectly restorated but once abandoned country house (bought by some wealthy overseas tourist), the profiles of neighboring villages and the almost perfect light that hits the historic center of Monteleone.

He can also guide you with his rare expertise through the Church of Our Lady of Mercy, a fifteenth-century Romanesque church which houses works by the school of Crivelli, and through some essential spots such as the Civic Tower and the town hall. Right there where the works of artists and photographers from the Marche, led by painter Letizia Ciccarelli from Macerata, will be on display until April 16. An exhibition named “Incrollabili”, which gives the true meaning of the human and historical resistance that has become more and more the hallmark of this region in recent months.

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It’s sunset and Monteleone di Fermo looks like magic, casting a spell on your eyes and voice. A magic that I invite you to breathe by visiting this precious treasure, maybe during the annual Giornate FAI di Primavera (FAI Spring Days) on March 25 and 26. And if you need any help, just look for a muddy stick.

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ANDREA BRACONI

17/03

WALKING (AND SKIPPING) TOGETHER

“What exactly do you do for a living, dad?”. It’s the adverb that puts you in trouble, because you know that you have to give an unequivocal answer. And because writing is never restricted to one particular field. It’s something liquid, mixed with perceptions. Writing fluctuates between different dimensions, each of which is always ready to intersect with the other.

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One of these is being a parent, which is “job” as well, and the most harmonious one.

And when the journalist and the father meet, just a few hours before March 19, all the stories they experienced together throughout their land connect with each other.

Stories that involve eggs, chasing balls, caressing glasses and hay bales. Even the amazing discovery of an abandoned place.

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And you remember the moment when the snap was overwhelmed by a feeling of awe stemming from being able to grasp a new word, or from a sudden and unsettling question that was forming.

You remember the taste of the sand of your sea, “which belongs to everyone, dad”.

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You cannot and do not want to forget a cry under a fresco, not because of the indifference in front of a little masterpiece, but because hunger takes precedence.

In this steaming pot of memories there are the steps to the Cave of the Sibyl, the meandering colors in the rain, the silence taken by the hand on the stands of a Roman theater, the time spent hiding in the bright green waves, the consumed boards of a stage, the kite blown eastward by the wind.

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And finally some rest, that makes your heart explode.

So best wishes, dear dads. And always celebrate the privilege of having this “job.” No need to browse a calendar.

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ANDREA BRACONI

14/03

SOMETIMES IN LIFE, YOU JUST HAVE TO REST

I am asked to describe the Marche and to possibily give voice to those everyday heroes who have made and are making this land great.

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I try very hard to run into those heroes at every step, even the smallest one. There are many stories I’ve collected over the years that I will be able to let breathe here. And there are many others that have just been mentioned, along roads that still need to be known.

But then there are days when you’re only in search of yourself, and in order to rest – that’s right, to rest! – you rush out of bed early in the morning and choose to go West. Right there where the Apennine Mountains hide priceless gems.

For this writer resting in fact means above all to observe, to dig through the colors, to be silent in the middle of a path. So, in early March I go through Fiegni, a small outlying suburb hamlet of Fiastra near Macerata. Just above the artificial lake fed by the river Fiastrone, at the Ruffella viewpoint I put my boots on and start to go down towards one of the most enchanting parts of the Sibillini Mountains.

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The sound of the rattling stones that mingles with the late-winter wind. The profile of the dam on the right side, caressed by the wavy water surface. The trees that become your roof. The slope that makes your knees bend, but not your desire. A Fiat Panda on the edge of it. The white and red signs that push you ahead, one intersection after another.

A half hour before you reach your destination, though, a greeting puts everything into question. It takes the form of a hero you would never have thought of shaking hands with.

“I am cutting wood for my house, for my fireplace, although the earthquake forced us to move away this year”. Mario, aged “way over 70,” lived in Fiegni before the October shocks damaged his house while he was out in the garden, when the plants began to sway back and forth and the gate pillars seemed to move. “I felt as if my feet were dancing and my upper body was shaking, something incredible! I now live in Polverina, where my daughter got married, and I’m coming back here because breathing mountain air always feels good.” Mario owns lots of land, and as many hectares of forest. He comes up here to carefully chop wood, always certain of one thing: “I go home at noon, change and have a nice lunch.”

He’s the same person who, after taking off his work glove, shaking hands with me and wiping a tear from his deep wrinkles, yells at me while I try to pick up the pace among the rocks and the shrubs: “Sometimes in life, you just have to rest “. That’s right, to rest, that feeling to which we both give the same meaning, without even knowing each other. The same feeling that makes you leave all your notes behind in the middle of the week and pushes you to stand before the fragile majesty of the Lame Rosse (“Red Blades”). The sounds change there, with the amount of gravel that sets the rhythm and the passing of time. The erosion (and the earthquake) transforms season after season this portion of land made of incisive colors, without changing its charm and unique magnetism. I stand there several minutes to catch the light reflections, as well as the stillness of the snow hidden inside. In the meantime, you can feel a continuous and harmonious rolling, almost like a chant.

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On my way back, Mario is gone, as well as his white Panda, with which he travels to carry wood among these woods. However, the stacks of branches and logs are there, perfectly chopped and left behind to be loaded tomorrow. He’ll be leaving once again from Polverina. It’s like that pile it’s there to show that there is someone who is forced to bend every time, and then rise again. To bend over, only to rise again. Managing to find one’s own rest time through these movements.

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ANDREA BRACONI

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